11th May 2017

We both slept amazingly well, despite choosing an unpowered campsite just 30 metres from the sea on one side and a railway track the same distance on the other. Surprisingly, three night trains and the full ebb and flow of the tide later, we woke refreshed and ready for another adventure.

A short drive along the seafront brought us to the centre of Napier, where we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around this charming Art Deco town. We stopped at a small café for coffee, using the internet to catch up on the news before returning to the RV.

From there, we ascended Bluff Hill and took in the stunning views of the harbour and bay below.

We planned to head towards Mount Taranaki, aiming to complete the journey over two days, stopping whenever something piqued our interest. In the end, it was the journey itself that became the highlight of the day.

We paused frequently to take in the scenery and capture photos of the ever-changing landscape. Driving through forests, deep ravines, and rolling hills dotted with white sheep or black and white cows, all seemingly content to graze side by side, we were eager to see what surprises lay around each bend or over the next crest.

The Napier to Hautapu road offered some of the most breathtaking views I’ve ever encountered, a truly spectacular driving experience. The only drawback was the toll it took on the brakes. Several downhill sections left behind the telltale acrid smell of overheated metal, a reminder of the steep and winding descent.

Hautapu has the feel of a frontier town. We’d noticed that the scattered farms in the highlands were now called ‘stations,’ which only added to the sense that we were venturing through recently explored territory. The buildings here are rustic and quaint, with more than a few second-hand shops, giving the impression that it’s not a wealthy area. Sheep and cattle are the dominant presence. In the roughly 200km we covered today, we saw only two logging trucks and three 4×4 vehicles, not much traffic to speak of.

 

We stopped for lunch at a small Malaysian café on the main street, where we had Nasi Goreng. There were only three other diners, and the town felt quiet, with barely anyone about except the occasional person crossing the street. We entertained ourselves by feeding a couple of sparrows some rice before continuing on our way.

Our original destination was Taranaki, but knowing we’d arrive after dark if we stuck to the plan, we opted instead for a coastal site just outside Hawera. It was late in the afternoon when we arrived, but still light. We had just enough time to check in, hook up to the electricity, and take a walk down to the heavily eroded volcanic beach.

For supper, we had Bhuja, burger-flavoured onion rings, and cider. In hindsight, we should have picked up something on our way through the small town of Hawera, but we didn’t! The lack of calories will no doubt be beneficial in the long run.

With no Wi-Fi available, we spent the evening playing cards and listening to music on my mobile phone.